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By Vic, 6 August, 2010 20:34

The flapper paternoster is probably the most popular rig for all general types of bottom fishing and it will take most bottom feeders. It’s known as a flapper as that’s what the baits do when being cast out, because of this, it’s not really suitable for long distance casting. If distance is the aim, then a clipped paternoster rig is the better option.

The one illustrated is a two hook adjustable but you can make up a three hook or how ever many you want. It’s adjustable in that the trapped swivels that connect to the hook lengths are held in place by sliding stops; this means that they can have their positions altered on the rig body by sliding either up or down.  It can be made as a fixed position rig by using crimps instead of sliding stops. I have made the hook lengths at 12 inches but they can be longer or shorter – just make sure that the hook length does not hit the hook length above it or below it, so adjust the distance between the trapped swivels accordingly.

The guide is for an adjustable flapper. If you want to make it fixed, just replace the stops with crimps.

1. Take a 4 foot (or however long you want) length of of 60 -80lbs shock leader for the rig body and tie a swivel to one end which will be the top.

2. For the adjustable stops, you can use either 4m lengths of 1mm silicon tubing or use stop knots. I prefer to use the silicon tubing and will describe here how to do them.

3. Slide a 4mm section on to the end of the line and then form a loop with the free end and pass the line back through the tubing without knotting it and pull. You should now have what looks like a silicon knot. Do this another two times.

4. Slide the ‘stops’ up the line until they are twelve inches from the swivel.

5. Slide on a bead, then a swivel followed by another bead.

6. Repeat step three and make another 4-5 stops. You may need more depending on the type of line and diameter, make enough until there is enough resistance to prevent the swivel being moved easily.

7. Repeat step three and make three stops and move them up the line until they are 12 inches from the second set of stops.

8. Repeat step 5 and then step 7.

9. Tie a lead clip or split ring to the free end of the rig body.

10. Tie your hook lengths (no more than twelve inches) to the two trapped swivels

11. Tie hooks to hook lengths.

You could replace the lower of the trapped swivels with a cascade swivel to allow changing this into a clipped down rig along with using an impact weight that has the built in bait clip (as shown) or bait shield.

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By Vic,

Basically, a flapper that has the hooks clipped down to make the rig more aerodynamic for casting. Constructed the same way except for the use of cascade swivels in place of the lower normal swivels. A hook length clips onto the cascade swivel below it. The lowest hook clips into either the built in clip of an impact lead (as illustrated), or an impact shield, whatever your preference is. I have made the hook lengths at 12 inches but they can be longer or shorter – just make sure that the hook length does not hit the hook length above it or below it, so adjust the distance between the trapped swivels accordingly.

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By Vic, 31 July, 2010 17:37

A method that uses two hooks in the bait – aids presentation and gives more opportunity for a fish taking the bait to be hooked. There are various ways of tying these and everyone has their favourite but personally, I find this to very effective. However, it’s not easy to do on a windy beach or pier, so I always make sure I have plenty already made up and kept on rig winders, ready to go. In an emergency, you can thread your hook length through the top hook, tie on the bottom hook and then wind  the line around the shaft of the top hook to keep it in place.

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1. Take your hook length and thread on your uppermost hook. I find that hook with a turned down are better. Didn’t have one handy for this illustration. Fig1

Fig. 1

2. Onto the line, slide a 4-5mm length of silicon rig tubing of a suitable diameter. Fig.2

Fig. 2

3.  Thread the piece of tubing carefully over the point of the hook. Fig 3 …….

Fig. 3

……and up the shaft until the hook is securely held in place. Figs 4 and 5

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Now add more pieces until the hook is secured in place but can still be slid on the line. Fig. 6

Fig. 6

Tie on your bottom hook. Top hook is adjustable to cater for varying bait sizes. Fig. 7

Fig. 7

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By Vic,

When rig building, a sliding stop using silicon rig tubing gives greater adjustability than fixed crimps. They’re easy enough to do and once you’ve got the hang of it, you can do them quite quickly. How many you need to use to get the desired level of resistance will depend on the line and tubing used. Make sure that the size of tubing is appropriate to the diameter of the line being used for the rig body. In the following illustrations, I used 6olb leader and 1mm tubing. Once I’ve bought my tubing, I spend a while cutting it all into sections and store them in a small container (saves doing it before a rig building session).

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Take a length of your rig body line and slide on to it a small 4mm length of silicon rig tubing. Figs 1 and 2

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Now form a loop in the leader bringing the end of the line around on itself. Fig 3.

Fig. 3

Insert the end of the line through the tube from the same direction as if going to do an overhand knot Fig 4. (but do not form a knot)

Fig. 4

Draw the line either side of the tube tight, making the loop smaller. Fig 5.

Fig. 5

..and finally pull until the loop disappears and you are left with what looks like a knot on the line Fig 6.

Fig. 6

Pull at it and you’ll see that it slides freely. Fig. 7

Fig. 7