Posts tagged: ABU

Not Squids In

By , 28 March, 2012 15:52

Picture of Brighton SeafrontHaving heard reports of squid already being caught at Brighton Marina, I felt like having a go for the critters on an early morning session at the west arm, so Tuesday was chosen as the day. For some unknown reason, I found myself wide awake at 4am instead of the planned 6am, so ended up kicking my heels (well watching the news and drinking coffee) until it was time to go.

I arrived on the West arm at just before 7am and found I was the only one there, so had the pick of where to fish. I trundled up the rest of the way to the end and dumped myself in the last float bay. The light breeze was coming from a North Easterly direction but I was well sheltered from it in my space; it had in fact, been the deciding factor that made me decide on the West arm as opposed to the East, which is more exposed to winds from that direction.

Picture of may rot in waterLooking at the sea, it was relatively clear but there were the definite signs of early May rot which could be seen in swirling cloudy patches. This annual phenomenon is a right royal pain the arse, as it tends to make the fishing crap and you end up with the slimy muck coating everything it comes into contact with. It’s caused by an algae bloom that then dies and turns into this unspeakable gop.

Seems that it has turned up early this year, probably caused by the unusually warm weather – oh lucky us!

Picture of ABU Enticer carp rodI began to set up and pulled the latest weapon in my arsenal from it’s protective bag – a 2½lb test curve ABU Enticer Pro carp rod (Pictured. As usual, click on the pic for a larger image). I’d got this in an Amazon deal for £20 instead of the normal forty odd quid. Time would tell if it was a wise choice or whether it would end up as yet another white elephant in amongst all the others in my garage.

It was teamed up with my trusty old Shimano Aero GT 6010 bait runner reel which is loaded with 20lb braid. A standard sliding float rig was employed but using a Tronix squid jig instead of the usual hook. I started with a pink one but later alternated with the green and even tried the blue.

Now, as hard as I tried, I just could not get a hit on the jigs at all – nothing, nada, zilch – all morning. I varied the distance out, experimented with the depth but nothing could induce any interest. So much for the ‘Enticer’ bit.

I have to say, that even though nothing was caught that would test the new rod out, it felt light and very comfortable to hold and use. It has a nice action that made casting or just under-arm flicking very easy. So far, I’m very pleased with it and can’t wait to test it properly with some critter on the other end.

I eventually called it quits at around 2pm, although I was tempted to stay longer, if only just to bask and enjoy the lovely warm sunshine that was bearing down as I left. Alas though, I had to work that night – good news is, it’s only until Thursday and then it’s off for a month over the Easter break – woohoo!

ABU 6500C3 CT Mag Strip

By , 5 August, 2010 23:01

Although this article is on the C3 CT  07, it equally applies to other ABU 6500’s (although part numbers will vary). I am not an expert reel technician and this is not meant to be an egg sucking exercise for those who are already familiar with stripping down a reel. This has been done as a guide on to how I strip and clean a reel in the hope that it may help those who are not used to taking these apart. The one being used here is the twin of the one I stupidly left behind after a recent session and was until now used as a ‘donor’ reel for parts.

Hyperlinked part names link to their respective part numbers in the Parts List at the end of the end of the page. Parts and their part numbers shown here pertain to this particular model, so may differ from other reels depending on model and year.

Print This Post Print This Post Beware, image heavy!
A list of things I use:

  • Clean lint free cloths
  • Suitable solvent (lighter fluid is good)
  • Small flat blade screwdriver
  • Small Phillips screwdriver
  • Spanner to fit handle nut
  • Reel oil
  • Reel grease
  • Small paintbrush
  • Toothbrush

I find that having everything organised first saves time and makes it easier to find the bits that drop off (they will). I sometimes use an old white hand towel for laying the various parts on but for these photos, I didn’t have it, so used my favourite fishing sweatshirt.

The first thing to do is give the reel a good rinse and scrub with a toothbrush under running water to remove excess salt and crap and then dry. As you can see, I didn’t (again). Fig1

Fig 1: Before

Remove the small handle nut retaining tab screw and handle retaining tab around the handle nut . Undo the the handle nut and remove the handle. You may have to remove the small circlip on the top of the shaft to get the handle off but on mine, the handle will come off over it. Beware as this is a slippery little sucker and will fly off into a parallel universe. Next, remove the small handle spring washer and unwind the star drag adjuster until it comes off the shaft. Lay the items out in the order you remove them, to make it easier when re-assembling. Fig2.

Fig 2: Handle and drag adjuster components.

Remove the two drag sprung washers from the drive shaft. Fig 3.

Fig 3: Sprung washers from drive shaft.

Undo the knurled tension cap on the end plate and remove the spindle retaining clip. Fig 4.

Fig 4: Spindle clip and right tension cap.

Undo the three knurled captive screws on the right hand side plate and remove it. Fig 5.

Fig 5: Right side plate removed revealing spool and spindle with brake blocks.

Remove the spool and spindle from the cage and put to one side. Fig 6. If you drop the brake blocks, finding them takes about the same amount of time and is about as successful as finding a cure for the common cold. Put them somewhere safe.

Fig 6: Spool and spindle removed from cage.

Undo the two smaller side plate screws to release the side plate from the brake plate and the internals. Fig 7.

Fig 7: Side plate removed from brake plate, revealing clutch and drag system.

If not already done, remove the small circlip (heed the warning) at the top of the drive shaft and pull the shaft and drag assembly off the spindle. Fig 8.

Fig 8: Drive shaft, main gear and drag assembly removed from spindle.

Now remove the main gear and drag system components from the gear shaft and lay them out in the order they came off. Look after them, as they are notoriously difficult and messy to retrieve from your pet. The drag components consist of a mixture of stainless steel washers and fibre washers Fig 9.

Fig 9: Drive shaft and drag system dismantled.

Remember to remove the small copper drive shaft shim from the base of the spindle and put it with the other drag washers. Fig 10.

Fig 10: Drive shaft shim removed.

These components may well need a good clean to remove any oil or grease. The easiest way is to get a shallow container, put the components in and cover with lighter fluid (taking all necessary safety precautions of course) and agitate gently them gently for a short while before taking them out and laying on absorbent paper to dry thoroughly. Fig 11.

Fig 11: Cleaning components in lighter fluid.

Dismantle the clutch components and lay them out as they come off. Fig 12.

Fig 12: Clutch components

After a through clean and de-cack, dry and lightly grease before re-assembling in the following order: Place the connector arm back onto its post. Fig 13.

Fig 13: Connector arm on its post.

… Followed by the Clutch release push button. Fig 14.

Fig 14: Clutch release push button.

..and the clutch release arm, not forgetting the small spring Fig 15.

Fig 15: Clutch release arm and spring.

After cleaning and re-greasing, click the pinion gear back into the pinion gear yoke making sure it’s the right way in (wider section with the slot goes to the bottom) and push the yoke onto its posts. Fig 16.

Fig 16: Pinion gear and yoke re-installed on posts.

Push the spool release pressure plate into position on its locating pins. Fig 17.  This can be fiddly.

Fig 17: Spool release pressure plate in situ.

Now to re-assemble the drag system. Firstly, put the drive shaft shim back on the spindle. Fig 18.

Fig 18: Drive shaft shim on spindle.

… Followed by the drive shaft itself. Fig 19.

Fig 19: Drive shaft replaced on spindle.

Now put on the smaller of the fibre drag washers. Fig 20.Be careful not to get any grease on the washers. If you do, clean again in lighter fluid and dry thoroughly.

Fig 20: Small fibre washer installed.

Next, slide the main gear back onto the drive shaft. Fig 21.

Fig 21: Main gear located on drive shaft.

…Followed by the drag washers, in this order: fibre, steel, fibre, tabbed steel, fibre, domed steel. Fig 22 and 23.

Fig 22: Drag washers in order L to R.

Fig 23: Drag washers in situ

After cleaning the side plate, add some grease to the IAR (Instant Anti Reverse) bearing located in the larger aperture. Fig 24.

Fig 24: IAR bearing can be seen in the larger aperture.

Now lightly grease and the IAR bearing bush and slide over the drive shaft before replacing the side plate and securing with the two small screws. Fig 25. I should have photographed the bush but forgot; it’s the small stainless steel cylinder as seen in Fig 8 earlier.

Fig 25: Sideplate replaced.

Pop the two sprung washers over the drive shaft and push them down onto the recess. Fig 26.

Fig 26: Sprung washers.

Now we go to the spool. It shouldn’t be necessary to remove the bearings, just a drop of oil to each should suffice. If they need to be removed, one is located under the circular brake block carrier on the right side. Fig 27.

Fig 27: Right side spool bearing under brake block carrier.

… the other is under a thin wire retaining clip on the left side of the spool. Fig 28.

Fig 28: Left spool bearing under wire clip.

Lightly oil the spool spindle and insert it long section first into the right hand end of the spool until the brass collar fits snugly. Gently pop the brake blocks back onto the carrier pins being careful not to get oil or grease on them. Fig 29.

Fig 29: Spool and spool spindle.

Being careful not to dislodge the brake blocks, insert that end of the spindle into the right side plate. Fig 30.

Fig 30: Spool and spindle re-installed into right side plate.

Clip the spindle retaining clip onto the end of the spindle and then screw back the tension cap. Fig 31.

Fig 31: Tension cap replaced.

Now the drag adjuster and handle assembly can be re-fitted in order: adjuster, sprung washer, handle, handle nut, nut retaining plate, screw. Fig 32.

Fig 32: Drag adjuster and handle assembly completed.

For the left hand side, there should be no need to remove the side plate but if you must, then remove the three retaining screws. Fig 33.

Fig 33: Left hand end plate retaining screws removed.

Gently pull the side plate off watching for anything that might drop out. Inside, there is the magnet slider spring which is a long  metal strip that should be attached to the side of the cage, the magnet holder and the magnet holder return spring. The magnet slide adjuster is connected to the magnet slide ratchet by a small screw so will not fall out..Fig 34.

Fig 34. Magnet holder, magnet holder return spring and magnet slider spring. Brass bullet in side plate.

The brass bullet spindle bush should be in the side plate but is easily removed for cleaning. Once cleaned, lightly oil and put back in its recess. Fig 35.

Fig 35: Brass bullet spindle bush.

Once cleaned, put the magnet holder back in place. Fig 36.

Fig 36: Magnet holder in place.

Put the magnet holder return spring back into its recess as shown. Fig 37.

Fig 37: Magnet holder return spring in correct position.

Slide the magnet adjuster slide to halfway and then carefully replace the side plate ensuring that all parts seat correctly. Once the side plate is back on, check that everything works smoothly. You should see the magnet holder moving in and out as the adjuster slide is moved. When you sure it’s all working as it should, secure the side plate with the three screws.


And that’s it, all done. To make sure all is working ok with no problems, check that the spool disengages cleanly and re-engages when the spool is turned by the handle. Check that the drag system works smoothly with no snatching. Make sure that the spool spins smoothly with no excessive noise. In general, does the reel run like new? If any problems encountered, strip it down again and find the source of the problem, don’t leave it until you’re on the beach with the fish of a lifetime on the other end – because you can bet a pound to a pinch of crap that that’s when the reel will fail.

For all reel schematics and part numbers, take a look here

Parts List

[stextbox id=”grey” caption=”Parts List” color=”000066″ bcolor=”000000″ bgcolor=”e3e1dd”]
Brake blocks: ABU Part no. 22565
Brake block carrier: ABU Part no. 22567
Brake plate: ABU Part no. 23525
Brass bullet: ABU Part no. 23500
Cage: ABU Part no. 811529
Circlip: ABU Part no. 4490
Clutch release arm: ABU Part no. 22077
Clutch release push button: ABU Part no. 20671
Connector arm: ABU Part no. 20685
Drag sprung washers: ABU Part no. 5131
Drag washers – fibre: ABU Part no. 13169 and 20907
Drag washers – stainless steel : ABU Part nos. 20906, 20905 and 20960
Drive shaft: ABU Part no. 22079
Drive shaft shim: ABU Part no. 5189
Handle: ABU Part no. 23080
Handle nut: ABU Part no. 5327
Handle nut retaining tab: ABU Part no. 20944
Handle nut retaining tab screw: ABU Part no. 301
Handle spring washer: ABU Part no. 5115
IAR bush (Instant Anti Reverse): ABU Part no. 22001
Left hand side plate: ABU Part no. 23497
Magnet holder: ABU Part no. 23501
Magnet holder return spring: ABU Part no. 23506
Magnet slide adjuster: ABU Part no. 23504
Magnet slide adjuster screw: ABU Part no. 295
Magnet slider ratchet: ABU Part no. 23523
Magnet slider spring: ABU Part no. 23505
Pinion gear: ABU Part no. 20848
Pinion gear yoke: ABU Part no. 20664
Right hand side plate: ABU Part no. 23507
Sideplate screws: ABU Part no. 304
Spindle retaining clip: ABU Part no. 20090
Spool assembly complete: ABU Part no. 970732 **
Spool bearings: ABU Part no. 13472
Left spool bearing retaining clip: ABU Part no. 10259
Spool release pressure plate: ABU Part no. 20686
Spool spindle: ABU Part no. 802631
Star drag adjuster: ABU Part no. 20925
Tension cap – left hand: ABU Part no. 9597
Tension cap – right hand : ABU Part no. 10239

** Complete spool assembly kit includes x2 13472 bearings, 13104 bearing bush, 22567 brake carrier, 20410 carrier circlip and 10259 bearing retaining clip but no spindle
[/stextbox]

ABU 6500 CS Rocket Strip

By , 24 July, 2010 14:56

Although this article is on the CS Rocket 01-04, it equally applies to other ABU 6500’s (although part numbers will vary). I am not an expert reel technician and this is not meant to be an egg sucking exercise for those who are already familiar with stripping down a reel. This has been done as a guide on to how I strip and clean a reel in the hope that it may help those who are not used to taking these apart. The one being used here is my old and trusted 6500 CS Rocket (01-04 model) that I’ve had for years and has never let me down even after all the abuse it’s had.

Hyperlinked part names link to their respective part numbers in the Parts List at the end of the end of the page. Parts and their part numbers shown here pertain to this particular model, so may differ from other reels depending on model and year.

Print This Post Print This Post Beware, image heavy!
A list of things I use:

  • Clean lint free cloths
  • Suitable solvent (lighter fluid is good)
  • Small flat blade screwdriver
  • Small Phillips screwdriver
  • Spanner to fit handle nut
  • Reel oil
  • Reel grease
  • Small paintbrush
  • Toothbrush

I find that having everything organised first saves time and makes it easier to find the bits that drop off (they will). I sometimes use an old white hand towel for laying the various parts on but for these photos, I didn’t have it, as it was having fish guts removed in the wash.

The first thing to do is give the reel a good rinse and scrub with a toothbrush under running water to remove excess salt and crap and then dry. As you can see, I didn’t. Fig1

Fig. 1

Remove the small screw and retaining tab around the handle nut . Undo the the handle nut and remove the handle. You may have to remove the small circlip on the top of the shaft to get the handle off but on mine, the handle will come off over it. Beware as this is a slippery little sucker and will fly off, either never to be found again or to be found when the nice doctor digs it of your eye. Next, remove the small handle spring washer and unwind the star drag adjuster until it comes off the shaft. Lay the items out in the order you remove them, to make it easier when re-assembling. Fig2.

Fig. 2

Undo the three knurled captive screws on the right hand side plate and remove it. The spool spindle will come out attached to the side plate.  Slide the spool out of the cage and put to one side for the moment. To prevent losing the small brake blocks and leave you like a dribbling, muttering fool on your hands and knees, slide them off their pins and put in a safe place. Undo the knurled tension cap on the end plate and remove the spindle retaining clip and withdraw the spool spindle Fig 3.

Fig. 3

Undo the two smaller side plate screws to release the side plate from the brake plate and the internals. Fig 4.

Fig. 4

If not already done, remove the small circlip (heed the warning) at the top of the drive shaft and pull the shaft and drag assembly off the spindle. Fig 5.

Fig. 5

Now remove the main gear and drag system components from the gear shaft and lay them out in the order they came off. Look after them, as they are notoriously difficult and messy to retrieve from your pet. The drag components consist of a mixture of stainless steel washers and fibre washers Fig 6.

Fig. 6

These components may well need a good clean to remove any oil or grease. The easiest way is to get a shallow container, put the components in and cover with lighter fluid (taking all necessary safety precautions of course) and agitate gently them gently for a short while before taking them out and laying on absorbent paper to dry thoroughly. Fig 7.

Fig. 7

Turning attention to the rest of the innards, remove the spool release pressure plate Fig 8.

Fig. 8

…and the pinion gear yoke Fig 9.

Fig. 9

Remove pinion gear from the front of the yoke with gentle finger pressure (Remembering which way it goes back – stubby end with the slot faces down) Fig 10.

Fig. 10

Now lift the clutch release arm off its pin after disconnecting from the small spring Fig 11.

Fig. 11

Remove Clutch release push button Fig 12.

Fig. 12

…and the connector arm Fig 13.

Fig. 13

Clean all parts thoroughly with solvent, dry and re-grease with reel grease. Also re-pack the pinion yoke with grease before popping the pinion gear back in (the right way up). Figs 14, 15 and 16

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

Now re-assemble the clutch release system. Pop the connector arm onto the post as shown Fig 17.

Fig. 17

…and the clutch release push button Fig 18.

Fig. 18

… followed by the clutch release arm, remembering to re-attach the small spring Fig 19.

Fig. 19

Push the pinion yoke – with the pinion gear already fitted in – onto the two posts Fig 20.

Fig. 20

Now push the spool release pressure plate down onto the posts as shown Fig 21.

Fig.21

To re-assemble the main gear and drag system. Lightly grease the drive shaft spindle before sliding the small copper drive shaft shim onto it, followed by the drive shaft Figs 22 and 23.

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

Slide the smaller of the fibre washers onto the drive shaft, followed by the main gear (make sure it engages with the pinion gear) and drag washers in the sequence shown – fibre, stainless steel, fibre, stainless steel tabbed, fibre, stainless steel domed – ensuring that they do not get contaminated with grease or oil. Figs 24 and 25

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Now slide the IAR bearing bush over the shaft Fig 26.

Fig. 26

Before refitting the side plate onto the backing plate, grease the instant anti reverse (IAR) bearing which is housed in the aperture that slides over the shaft. Once done, slide the side plate over the shaft and secure with the two small screws before sliding the drag sprung washers over the drive shaft. Figs 27 and 28

Fig. 27

Fig. 28

Having finished assembling the right (drive) side, put it to one side and go on to the next part.

Unless you are removing the spool bearings for cleaning or replacement, there’s no need to do much here apart from a light clean to remove any debris and to add a drop of oil to each bearing. On the drive side, the bearing is obvious, sitting under the brake block carrier. Fig 29
**As an aside it should be mentioned that when purchasing the spool, it comes as a complete unit comprising of the spool, bearings, shim, ratchet/level wind drive cog, brake block carrier and circlip. You can still get the component parts separately should you need to**

Fig. 29

The opposite bearing sits under the white plastic ratchet cog which is easily (but gently) prised off with a flat blade screwdriver. Fig 30

Fig. 30

Having done the spool, put it one side with the completed right end plate. Go the other side and remove the three retaining screws and take the left side plate off Fig 31

Fig. 31

To remove the level wind, first unclip one end of the small retaining plate that holds the cog at the end of the level wind worm gear Fig 32

Fig. 32

On the level wind bar, undo the screw and remove the pawl cap. The pawl itself may come out with the cap but if not, gently prise it out with a small flat blade screwdriver. Fig 33

Fig. 33

Now completely remove the worm gear, the small retaining plate, the level wind bar and the level wind guide Fig 34.

Fig. 34

Give all parts a thorough clean before lightly oiling and re-assembling using the reverse order of removal and making sure that the pawl engages fully with the worm gear. Figs 35-38

Fig. 35

Fig. 36

Fig. 37

Fig. 38

The end plate itself requires little doing to it apart from good clean, re-grease of the ratchet system, a drop of oil in the tension end cap and drops of oil in the brass bullet that holds that end of the reel spindle and the spindle of the idler gear (white plastic cog) Figs 39 and 40 before being re-attached with the three small screws.

Fig. 39

Fig. 40

The spool and spindle can now be re-assembled. With the reel cage laying on its left side, drop the spool into place with the small plastic cog end going in first and being careful not to lose the fibre brake blocks. Fig 41

Fig. 41

After lightly oiling, slide the spool spindle into the spool with the brass spacer at the right hand end. Fig 42

Fig. 42

Replace the right (drive side) end plate ensuring that the spool spindle locates properly through the brass pinion gear and protrudes through the end plate. Make sure that the end plate fits correctly before securing it with the knurled captive screws. Fig 43

Fig. 43

Replace the black plastic spindle clip and screw back the tension cap Fig 44 and 45

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

Replace the star drag onto the drive shaft, taking care not to cross thread it and wind it down to the bottom of the shaft Fig 46

Fig. 46

Replace the spring tab and the handle Figs 47 and 48

Fig. 47

Fig. 48

Replace the circlip before replacing the handle nut and tightening Fig 49.

Fig. 49

Now replace the retaining tab and secure it with the small screw Fig 50.

Fig. 50


And that’s it, all done. To make sure all is working ok with no problems, check that the spool disengages cleanly and re-engages when the spool is turned by the handle. Check that the drag system works smoothly with no snatchiness. Make sure that the spool spins smoothly with no excessive noise. Ensure that the level wind works correctly. In general, does the reel run like new? If any problems encountered, strip it down again and find the source of the problem, don’t leave it until you’re on the beach with the fish of a lifetime on the other end – because you can bet a pound to a pinch of crap that that’s when the reel will fail.

For all reel schematics and part numbers, take a look here

Parts List

[stextbox id=”grey” caption=”Parts List” color=”000066″ bcolor=”000000″ bgcolor=”e3e1dd”]
Brake blocks: ABU Part no. 22565
Brake block carrier: ABU Part no. 22567
Brake plate: ABU Part no. 22820
Brass bullet: ABU Part no. 20639
Circlip: ABU Part no. 4490
Clutch release arm: ABU Part no. 22807
Clutch release push button: ABU Part no. 20671
Connector arm: ABU Part no. 20685
Drag sprung washers: ABU Part no. 5131
Drag washers – fibre: ABU Part no. 13169 and 20907
Drag washers – stainless steel : ABU Part nos. 20906, 20905 and 20960
Drive shaft: ABU Part no. 22079
Drive shaft shim: ABU Part no. 5189
Handle: ABU Part no. 20932
Handle nut: ABU Part no. 5327
Handle spring washer: ABU Part no. 5115
IAR bush (Instant Anti Reverse): ABU Part no. 22001
Left hand side plate: ABU Part no. 20840
Level wind bar: ABU Part no. 2496
Level wind guide: ABU Part no. 5174
Main gear: ABU Part no. 21200
Pawl: ABU Part no. 5176
Pawl cap: ABU Part no. 5177
Pinion gear: ABU Part no. 20848
Pinion gear yoke: ABU Part no. 20664
Idler gear: ABU Part no. 5152
Ratchet cog: ABU Part no. 19373
Ratchet system: ABU Part nos. 8744, 8904, 4467, 8745, 4464, 4465 and 3909
Retaining plate: ABU Part no. 5178
Retaining tab: ABU Part no. 20944
Right hand side plate: ABU Part no. 21291
Screw: ABU Part no. 301
Sideplate screws: ABU Part no. 304
Spindle retaining clip: ABU Part no. 20090
Spool: ABU Part no. 970450
Spool assembly: ABU Part no. 970450
Spool bearings: ABU Part no. 13472
Spool release pressure plate: ABU Part no. 22808
Spool spindle: ABU Part no. 802631
Star drag adjuster: ABU Part no. 20925
Tension cap – left hand: ABU Part no. 9597
Tension cap – right hand : ABU Part no. 10239
Worm gear: ABU Part no. 5205
[/stextbox]

Lost Reel

By , 27 May, 2010 09:57

ABU Mag EliteAt some stage last Sunday 23.5, I stupidly left my old and trusted green ABU 6500 mag elite on the wall at Brighton Marina, East arm around bay 28. In a vain hope of recovery, I’m asking if anyone saw it or knows of anyone who has found it to let me know please.

I’ve tried the Tackle box and marina security with no luck.

Many thanks

Theme adapted from: Panorama theme by Themocracy